by Pete Schermerhorn, from the glorious (and rainy) Berkshire hills of western Massachusetts, USA.
Several people on the Infrared Mailing list expressed an interest in identifying the locations of the various sites that Simon Marsden photographed for his book "In Ruins" (The Once Great Houses of Ireland). This past month, I visited a few more of the sites, and here is the sum-total of my current information on this subject.
The copy of the Marsden book I have is the 1997 First Revised Edition, Bulfinch Press. I expect that the U.K. version of the book is the same, with perhaps only some changes in pagination. The maps I use for reference are the Ordnance Survey of Ireland Discovery Series, 1:50,000 scale. The complete set is 89 maps, about $5.60 each. They are excellent maps, showing the individual houses in rural areas as well as driveways, farm buildings, etc. The only map shortcomings relate to the time elapsed since the aerial photography was done - in some cases, as long ago as the early 70's. Major thoroughfares have been added-to and some additional housing has been built, but, for my purposes, these posed no problems. After all, the well-identified castles, ruined abbeys, stone circles, megalithic tombs, etc., haven't moved much in the past few years.
In previous years, I have been able to find copies of these maps at petrol stations in the local areas, but this year - many of them seemed to be sold-out or claimed that "tourists were unwilling to pay that much for a map". The tourist kiosk at Shannon airport stocks nearly all of the maps (they were out of only # 42 when I was there. I offered to sell them mine, properly annotated, at an inflated price.),,Alternatively, they can be purchased in advance from Map Sales, Ordnance Survey Office, Phoenix Park, Dublin 8, Ireland. Telephone 01-8206100, Fax 01-8204156, e-mail: custserv@osi.ie. An remember, postage charges to Europe may be reasonable, but to the U.S., they are horrendous.
The map co-ordinates are given in the usual manner (well-explained on the maps). utilizing a letter (from Ireland's "National Grid") followed by six digits. The first three digits represent the "x" axis (eastings), the second three are the "y" axis (northings). Then the Discovery map number, followed by an approximate distance (as the crow flies, generally) from a nearby, larger and better-known location. Finally, my comments and experiences regarding the site.
On the grounds of a hotel, but easy access. Parking right there, no hassle, no charge. The photo is an archway in a wall to the tower, 20 or 30 yds. farther on. The tower is nice, but the entrance was gated. I was recently told that the key to the gate is readily available at the hotel/guest house. There is no greenery on the tower itself, so perhaps not much for IR.
Haven't visited, but I believe this cadaver tombstone is actually located at the adjacent Protestant church (C. of I.)
This if the cluster of buildings on the S side of the road (on the map). It looks about the same as in the book. The property is still horse-oriented. It is used as a sort of horse stables and riding "academy", although the main building still has trees growing out of the windows and up through the open roof.
This baby has lots of ivy on it, now. I saw it from a bit farther away, but I had just gotten off the overnite plane from NYC and wasn't quite ready to trek into the wet stuff to get closer, at that time. I was in Quin again this year and went to nearly St. Finghin's church, but still balked at the prospect of reaching the tower again. Pouring rain, this time, too.
Missed it last year. On my way, rushing through Bandon to get to Timoleague, I forgot to check the map at the right time. Next time I'm in the area, I'll probably stop.
Was in a hurry, knew I'd be back in the area soon.
The ruin is on an industrial site and is right next to a large construction garage (as I remember). Drew must be proud of the family manor. I visited on a Sunday, the chain-link fences were locked. I think it could be photographed all right and the industrial cropped-out......but it wouldn't look as isolated as in Marsden's photo. I don't believe the photo on p. 33 was taken at the Priory cemetary in the center of the town. I was there and my photos don't match-up. It was probably from the graveyard at the old church at the N. end of Castlelyons Town. Perhaps SM will send me an e-mail at PeteScherm@aol.com and confirm this. (Fat chance).
Missed this one, too. Justified missing it on the basis that I didn't have any "real" IR film with me at the time. Perhaps next year.
Somewhere in the large desmesne on the E side of the town of Doneraile. I took the book at its word, that the house and grounds had recently been restored - and avoided the place.
This was on my itinerary last year but - of course - I ran out of time and put it on a future list.
Missed this part of Cork, too. By this time, my planned itinerary had turned into a joke. My week along the S. Cork coast was compressed into one day. That's one of the reasons I went from 3 to 4 weeks in Ireland this year (although the southern Cork county area was not on this year's list).
The book says all but the portico has been destroyed. I didn't visit.....too close to Dublin.
tripod near there, the owner's son drove by and inquired of "my intentions". I mentioned "Simon Marsden" and he told me to go in and take all the photos I wanted. They have had a host of tourists come by this summer, hence the sign. His mother is putting the place up for sale, together with its 20 acres. This place could be a real fixer-upper.............for someone of unlimited income.
The coordinates won't show a place on the map, but they are from another reference source. The maps aren't perfect. I may visit next year.
I was near there this year, but the pouring rain kept me from much searching. Met Eireann reported that, for much of the country, this September had been the wettest on record.
I tried to get there this year, but my natural dislike of urban areas kept me from visiting. My hands on the steering wheel have a mind of their own and prevent me from lingering near cities and large towns. I'll probably never go there.
The access road has a 6-foot high bar across the entrance, preventing entry of caravans, etc. Nice location, on the edge of a Wildlife Conservation area farther up the hill.
I've visited Portumna a few times, but never had any interest in the castle. This trip, I visited the ruined friary just down the road and went past the castle. Sunday afternoon, plenty of picnickers, etc., there. Very accessible, lots of parking.
According to the book, the house is in Clarinbridge (parish or townland?), it does "overlook the sea: and you can't do that from Clarinbridge. The area called Tyrone is near enough, and by the ocean, so that is where I looked. No luck, but recent newspaper articles said the OPW was hoping to "restore" Tyrone House. Aaaaargh.
Never interested me and, besides, it's WAY too close to Dublin.
A very nice place to visit. Raining when I was there last year, but I'll go back again, soon, for more and better photos. There is a new pedestrian bridge, across the King's River, to the N of the Priory ruins. It's easier to reach the site by taking the road on the N bank of the river and walking over the bridge. The traditional way, from the S, would be fine in drier weather than I was encountering. (As I type this, it must sound as if it rains all the time in Ireland. But I guess I have learned to work around the showers).
It's somewhere in the Woodstock Desmesne, now a state forest. It seemed to be too time-consuming to locate, and probably walk to, it, when I was last in that area.
Next year, I hope.
One of only two places of the hundreds I've visited where I saw noticeable graffiti (and some broken beer/soda bottles). It's close to Limerick, on a hill overlooking the Shannon estuary. Probably, a great place for a midnight beer party. But it is still easy to photograph the place and avoid the graffiti. Lots of ivy, as you can tell from the photo. The access drive is just past the last of several close-together houses on the W side of the road, along the perimeter wall of the house's yard. These houses were built since the aerial photography for the map was taken.
I've been unable to pin-down which of 5 or so castles this one is, all within a 3 mile area just SE of Pallaskerry, centered around Dromore Lough. The "now under restoration" comment in the book will probably keep me away. Note that there is another Dromore area, 2 miles ENE of Limerick City, on the banks of the Shannon. I'd appreciate any info you could supply me with, on this or other "unknown" locations.
Tried to visit it, but does not seem to be accessible. I was greeted by a sign at the head of the "driveway" entrance. "DANGER. These lands contain farm animals and working farm machinery. DO NOT APPROACH." It was signed "FBD". Although the sign interpretation could be considered cryptic, I took it as a sign that wanted me not to enter and, being the nic guy that I am, I usually obey the signs. (Most of the Irish I talk to tell me I'm being stupid - the Irish never pay any attention to such signs. However, I have had some interesting encounters with bulls, even in unmarked fields,).
I've been through the town of Neale 4 or more times, but haven't had the urge to stop.
I was in the area this past month, but was driven-out by - what else - heavy rains. The rains and the forecast were so bad, that I headed straight for a climb up Ben Bulben. Not far enough away. Rain there, too.
Right next to the road, as on the map. Large decorative wrought-iron gates. Castle seems well-surrounded by greenery. When I visited, the "Closed today" sign was out.
Access is through a cattle gate between large stone sides of, probably, the original castle-bawn entrance. Just to the right of the castle gate is a driveway back to a farmhouse of the probable owner of the castle property. Didn't go in. Pouring rain, couldn't even see far enough in to determine if the car wreck is still there.
I was driving around this area a few years ago, but not specifically looking for this place. Didn't see it, in any case. This year, I was nearby, but wanted to spend my time in that area climbing Ben Bulben and going out to Inishmurray. The weather kept me from doing either. That may have been the "end of Floyd" at that time.
I've been close, in the past, but haven't been there yet.
Went there last year. A nice place. It's now all cows and gentle bulls - no sheep.
A run-of-the-mill tower house, in fine shape, well-ensconsed with a number of farm, etc., buildings around it. Would be hard to get a good shot of it. The property is owned by a gun club ("Members Only"), so that would seem to be an organization that one wouldn't like to displease - even in relatively placid Tipperary.
Spent more time than planned at the fine nearby Athassel Priory and, so, skipped it.
I skipped it last year. This year, I lost my map 60, couldn't get a replacement in the area, so drove out of the area to an adjoining map.
I tried to get to it, but the large property was well-fenced and the access road was blocked by some serious vehicles. No one was around to ask.
Skipped it this year. We all know why.
Next year.
More information. I stayed at a nearby B&B and the owner said that this is the place, but he believes that the gate is all that is left........no house beyond, along the track through the gate. The weather kept me away this time.
Heavy rain, avoided the area completely. Next year.
Okay, but I've been to dozens of more interesting and picturesque old "abbeys" in Ireland. "Restoration" is still ongoing.
by Pete Schermerhorn, in the glorious (and rainy) Berkshire hills of western Massachusetts.
If you visit any of these places or have any comments on Pete's excellent contribution please let me know.
Last Updated: Wednesday, October 13, 1999
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